Figure-eight or
Flemish bend The figure eight is the most secure and common way
to tie into your harness. The knot is almost idiot-proof, all you have to do is
add an extra twist to a normal knot then follow the rope back through. The knot
is the strongest if the working end stays on the inside and no strands are
crossed. This can also be tied very easily when making a loop. The figure-eight
can be untied with ease after it has held weight.
Double fisherman's knot The double
fisherman's knot is a strong and useful knot for creating slings or joining
ropes of different diameters. This knot is also called the Grapewine. the
working end of the rope coils around the standing end forming half of the knot,
when the other side is tied in the same manner the halves are pulled together.
Leave an inch or more of tail and pull the knot tight.
Prusik The Prusik has many uses since it
can perform two functions and it is easy to do. A sling can be used to create a
Prusik knot. The Prusik can be used as a self belay during a rappel as well as
securing a fallen leader. The Prusik can slide along a rope when loose but
tightens when weight is placed on it. The sling has to be twisted around the
main line twice then looped back through the original loop.
Klemheist The Klemheist is a variation on
the Prusik. The Klemheist is easier to tie but not to pronounce. The Klemheist
also works with a webbing sling.
Bachmann This knot is used in case you
actually have to ascend a fixed rope. A carabiner is attatched to the rope using
a sling. The carabiner allows easier movement of the knot during the ascent. Do
not get the strands twisted when attatching the biner since the sling provides
the grip.
Hedden The Hedden is a ratchet knot just
like the Prusik but used with webbing. It is quick and easy to tie since it is a
variation on the figure-eight but used like a Prusik.
Bowline This knot looks simple but it is
hard to learn and easy to screw up when tired. The Bowline is a safe tie-in when
the free end is tied off. If not, the line will pull through. The bowline is
easy to adjust and can be used to tie in to multiple anchor points and to
equalize the load on each point. A bowline on a coil can also be used to tie
into the rope without a harness.
Ring bend or Water knot This knot
is used to make a webbing sling.Do not use this knot to make a rope sling. Make
an overhand knot and follow it back through from the other side. Leave at least
an inch of tail in the ends.
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